Pete Hamill on Downtown, jazz and Gabo

If you’ve never read the book Downtown by Pete Hamill, then you’re definitely missing something. The author eloquently expresses his love for New York, and sketches the history behind this great city. The narrative covers the transformation of Bowling Green to 42^nd Street from the settlement of the Dutch in the 17^th century, and explains how Times Square became a New Year’s Eve tradition, the graveyard past of Washington Square, the emergence of Fifth Ave and the recent birth of the department store, among other things.

After polishing off a cheese Danish, 73-year-old Hamill dropped in on our class today. Looking exactly like he does in the book cover’s picture with a black crew collar shirt and tan striped blazer, Hamill sat at the head of the classroom nursing his coffee and spoke about the process of writing “Downtown.”

When asked why he undertook such an immense project, he explains, “I have a grandson who’s 10, and I wanted him to be able to understand why this weird old guy with a beard had such a passion for a place without cows.”

Hamill goes on to explain his writing routine: he will turn on jazz music—nothing with words—and settle down in an oversize, plush chair, then write three or four pages longhand on yellow paper. He will then go to the computer and retype his material.

Jazz, he reveals, is one of his passions. When writing he probes, “What’s the music of this piece? What’s the beat?” Often when listening to a musical phrase he will improvise words to match.

“Jazz is something I can connect to. It’s one of the great triggers,” he says.

When asked what he remembers of the Meatpacking District before gentrification struck, he chuckles and tells the story of his black Labrador, Gabo, with lively animation.

“The creature who loved MePa was our dog, Gabo. He loved the odors of MePa. Big sides of beef hanging around…chunks of fat thrown into piles…he wanted to live there.”

After an engaging hour and a half of Hamill’s personal stories, he finished with a reading from the last chapter of Downtown, and signed my book, twice.

On the Menu

Day by day, night after night, the Meatpacking District is full of life. You can witness the neighborhood’s rapid gentrification, as construction is in full swing even though the area appears already defined. Following is a list of things to do, see, and talk about like a native:

Ø Check out the recently opened Moschino flagship store at 401 W. 14^th St.

Ø Hugo Boss plans to open a concept store in the same building as Moschino coming late fall

Ø Ports 1961 is building a store on 3 Ninth Ave for a late 2008 opening

Ø British designer Matthew Williamson is opening his first New York store in January 2009 next to Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney on West 14^th Street

Ø Watch construction go up on the new Barneys downtown flagship, which has finally settled on a space on West 13^th Street

Ø Scrape up enough cash to rent at the Caledonia, a new residential building on the fringes of MePa on West 17^th Street where studios start at almost $4,000

Ø Welcome to the neighborhood Ralph Fiennes, who back in July plunked down $2 million for a loft on West 13^th Street

Ø Book a room at Andre Balaz’s Standard Hotel, between West Street and West 13^th Street, slated for a soft opening in late fall

Ø Visit the High Line, a one and a half mile long elevated rail structure being transformed into a park, whose first section, from Gansevoort Street to 20^th Street, is expected to open by the end of the year

Ø Watch a $435 million satellite of the Whitney Museum begin construction on Gansevoort Street between Washington and West Streets in spring 2009

Ø An office building straddling the High Line is being constructed on top of a former meatpacking plant at 450 W. 14^th St., scheduled to finish 14 months from now

Ø An 80,000 square foot office building is being erected behind restaurant Pastis, with ground floor retail space available

Ø In honor of the first ever Food Network New York City Wine and Food Festival, many Meatpacking District restaurants will be offering a special “Meatpacking Eats Menu,” created exclusively for the weekend of October 9-12. Check out the website and book now: http://www.nycwineandfoodfestival.com/2008/view_events.php?event=140

Ø Also part of the New York City Wine and Food Festival is “Meatpacking Uncorked” on October 10^th, which features a wine tasting tour. Read all about the event here and be sure to get tickets early: http://www.nycwineandfoodfestival.com/2008/view_events.php?event=153

Ø Another mentionable event from the food festival is the “Meatpacking Local” tour on October 11, which features talks by some of New York’s top chefs (like Sue Torres of Los Dados). See if you can still sign up at: http://www.nycwineandfoodfestival.com/2008/view_events.php?event=183

Ø See the latest comedy shows at Comix on 353 W. 14 St., named “One of the top six comedy clubs in the U.S.” by the Hollywood Reporter: http://comixny.com/calendar.aspx

Ø See the exhibition “Stepmothers, Stepsisters, Witches and Virgins” at the edgy 7 Eleven Gallery on Washington Street, which runs till October 16: http://www.7elevengallery.com/exhibitions/

Ø A little north of the Meatpacking District, at the Highline Ballroom on West 16^th Street, is a lineup of performers like The Pretenders, Puddle of Mud, and T.I. Check out the Highline’s schedule at: http://www.highlineballroom.com/calendar.php?month=10&year=2008